Back To School!
I've been back in Grasse now for four days and it has been a whirlwind.
This semester, most of our time at school is dedicated to creating a perfume, body lotion and candle for the brand of our choice, according to the brief given to us by our sponsor school, Firmenich. The brief itself is completely indistinguishable from what I imagine are the origins of many other fragrances; our scent has to be "bold and shocking," for the "seductive" independent woman "who wants to live life to the fullest," and whose "loving, innocent trap you can't help but fall into." (Should I be offended?) In any case, Tessa, Vikki and I have chosen to work on a (pretend) special edition for Juliette Has A Gun.
In the meantime, we also have a 2009 trend report due this Monday. Because I was late getting back to school (Mexico!) Vikki and Tessa did the writing and my job over the weekend is to spruce it up and make it look magical. I got horribly depressed and had to call a friend at home yesterday though, because all of the marketing jargon was getting to me. It seems as if all people, referred to strictly as consumers, have been studied and classified so as to best exploit their buying power. It was particularly scary to read about the "minimalist and purity" consumer trend, which includes marketing products towards people who are socially and environmentally conscientious. However, if a brand is creating a product that is better for the environment or helps some social group (i.e. fair trade), should their intention, even when it may be purely for profit, matter? Because somewhere in my heart I feel that intentions do matter. I feel a great hope though that companies such as Tom's Shoes and Pangea Organics, and organizations like Trust Art and Project H are leading the world into a new phase where consumerism, a necessary part of our life, is done with clarity, honesty, and an eye towards the greater good.
Perfume seems to be particularly vulnerable to exploitative marketing. We were talking in class the other day and a classmate of mine ran Diesel's recent cologne Only The Brave through a GC (gas chromatography, which can read out the ingredients, both chemical and natural, of an alcohol-based fragrance). He found that the ingredients in Only The Brave amounted to just 10 euros a kilo. When you consider that 2.5 oz bottle contains about 85% alcohol as a carrier, leaving just 15% pure perfume ingredients and costs $65, the actual fragrance itself costs just $0.17!! That means that the majority of that purchase is going towards the packaging, advertising, salaries, and profits. Of course I believe that salaries and profits should be made, but almost everyone I've talked to, perfume industry insiders included, have felt that the integrity of the scents themselves are being lost as more money is taken away from the raw materials and into other areas, primarily the advertising.
With the Humanity project, my ultimate goal is to show people, and the perfume industry, that fragrance can be used in many other ways rather than the merely superficial and profitable. Of course I look for simple pleasure in fragrances too, don't get me wrong, but this project is just an example of the opposite, so that we can hopefully meet in some happy middle ground.


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