Creation Class
Our courses in raw materials are just about over, and I now know over three hundred individual synthetic and natural ingredients for perfume. What’s crazy is, I walked past a lilac bush the other day, and the flowers were just about over, wilting. All I could think when I walked by was “Ick, sticks like indol.” Indol is a chemical that smells strongly of burnt hair and mothballs. I’m beginning to pick out individual smells from the world!
We started chemistry courses last month, and just last week we added genealogy and creation. In genealogy class, we’re learning and memorizing about one hundred perfumes on the market including old-time classics, trendsetters and perfumes that created new genres, and the top ten. It has been extremely eye opening for me. We’ve smelled just two so far, Chanel No. 19 and Amazone by Hermes. I pretty much thought I disliked all main stream perfumes but never have I sat and really smelled them, taking the time to analyze and appreciate them. We study the marketing materials too: the advertisements, the tag lines. Marketing scares me.
Creation class is a dream. It’s taught by Max Gavarry, former chief perfumer at IFF. For the moment, we are learning to reconstitute individual flowers using a mix of ten to twenty synthetic and natural ingredients. Something clicked for me on the first day of class when Max said it. I’ve heard it over and over but it didn’t get into my head until that moment, and when it did, it did so clear as day. The reason we reconstitute flowers with many ingredients, including and especially with synthetics, is because the naturally obtained oils don’t smell like the real thing in full bloom. When you think about the processes to obtain a natural oil - the picking, the drying, the boiling, the steaming - it makes sense. Rose oil can be wonderful but it also kind of smells pungent and sour (we even nicknamed it fish soup when we were cramming for the tests). We’re working in groups to create good solid bases and then manipulating them. For rose, Vicki, Tessa and I made two versions: an earthy rose and a creamy rose. The idea for the earthy rose is one that is just slightly before full bloom with pink petals still closed a bit, and hints of dirt and stem. The creamy rose we accentuated with sandalwood and coconut.
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